Himachali Madra (Himachali Chickpea Yogurt Curry)
Himachali madra is a curry with a thick yogurt-based gravy popular in Himachali Pradesh, in northern India. This recipe for Himchali chana madra is for an authentic chickpea curry in a fragrant yogurt gravy.
The variety of Indian cuisine
It's easy to forget how big India is. With a total area of 1,269,219 square miles and populated by more than 1.2 billion people, this country has one of the most diverse cultures in the world.
And if that's not enough, during history, many external ethnic groups migrated to India from Central Asia, The Himalayas, and more. Such communities influenced India's culture and cuisine to a great extent. (Learn more about the history and cuisine of India.)
Today's recipe represents this unique puzzle called Indian cuisine, with a personal story that involves Tibetan Monks, an Indian Himalayan feast, and an unforgettable birthday party.
Himachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh is an Indian state located in the northwest of the country, about 10 hours by bus from Delhi. It lies on the Himalayan Plateau and is a crossway between the highlands of Nepal and the tropical Northern Indian lowlands.
The Himachali population is predominantly Northern Indian. They are very proud of their unique Himachali culture and cuisine. Westerners best know Himachal Pradesh as the temporary residence of the exiled Tibetan Buddhists, led by His Holiness the Dalai Lama.
The Tibetans have a unique, colorful culture of dance, art, music, and hearty and comforting cuisine, as they originally reside in the highlands of the Himalayan Plateau. Since the beginning of the Chinese occupation of Tibet in the 1950s, most of the Tibetan Buddhist leaders have fled from their capital of Lahsa. They have taken asylum in villages nearby Dharamshala, the capital of Himachal Pradesh.
The Dalai Lama's birthday celebration
As a part of a long trip around India, I arrived in Dharamshala in July 2022. I arrived particularly during this time because I heard that the Dalai Lama's birthday was approaching. I was eager to meet the exiled Tibetan community and learn about their culture. And, I was hoping to see something interesting on that day.
On the morning of July 6th, I hiked from a nearby village to Namgyal Monastery, where I heard that the Dalai Lama stays occasionally.
Soon enough, I realized that he was not there. (He did arrive a few days later, and I was fortunate enough to hear some words of wisdom.) But even from just walking around nearby streets, it was clear that something was going on. The street was beautifully decorated with colorful prayer flags, music was playing all around. Tibetan street vendors sold Momo dumplings and traditional candies for the kids to enjoy.
As I entered the monastery, I realized that a concert was about to take place, so I looked for a place to sit. On the stage, a band began playing traditional Tibetan instruments as local school kids danced for the crowd, who were enthusiastically clapping along. Their dance outfits were so colorful. They moved so joyfully. To be honest, it was one of the cutest things I've ever seen.
After the show was over, the musicians and dancers cleared the stage. Then, people carried large pots and tables to the center. A feast was about to start.
A festive Himchali feast
In the past, I have been to Tibetan restaurants when traveling around Europe and Asia. So I was already acquainted with some traditional delicacies. However, as I reached the serving table, I realized that the pots were not filled with Tibetan Momo dumplings or noodle soups. Rather, they contained an assortment of colorful, Indian-style curries.
On a plate of white rice, I was served a lentil dal, a sour red bean curry, and the main dish - a stew that was composed of chickpeas, incorporated into a thick and aromatic yogurt gravy.
This meal was incredibly delicious. But, despite being similar to other Northern Indian dishes that I've tried, it was clear to me that this was a unique, local Himachali food.
Himchali madra, a part of the festive meal set
A few days after the birthday party, I met a local Himachali lady named Rajni, and I decided to take a cooking class with her. I told her about the wonderful meal that I had in the Tibetan monastery, and she was very pleased to hear about it.
She explained that the curry assortment that they served is called Dham. It is a traditional Himachali meal set that is reserved only for special, festive occasions.
Rajni taught me how she makes the main dish of the Himachali Dham, called Madra. This chickpea curry has become a staple dish in my kitchen very quickly. The yogurt gravy for this chickpea curry is so addictive. And once you master the recipe, it is relatively quick to prepare.
Himachali Madra (Chickpea Yogurt Curry)
Himachali madra is a curry with a thick yogurt-based gravy popular in Himachali Pradesh, in northern India. This recipe for Himchali chana madra is for an authentic chickpea curry in a fragrant yogurt gravy.
Ingredients
- 3 tablespoon of clarified butter (ghee), divided
- 1 onion, finely chopped
- 3 green cardamoms
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 teaspoon of coriander seeds
- 1 bay leaf
- 1 tomato, finely chopped
- 1 cup of Greek yogurt
- 400g cooked chickpeas (roughly 2 ⅓ cups)
- 1 cup of boiling water
- 1 teaspoon of chili powder
- 1 teaspoon of garam masala
- ½ teaspoon of turmeric powder
- ½ teaspoon of cumin powder
- 1 tablespoon of dried fenugreek leaves
- Salt to taste
- Cilantro leaves, for garnish
Instructions
- Heat a pan with 2 tablespoon of ghee on a low flame.
- Add the chopped onion and sauté for 5-7 minutes. Stir the onion once in a while, to avoid burning.
- Remove the fried onion to a small bowl. Set aside. Keep the leftover ghee in the pan.
- Add another tablespoon of ghee and the whole spices: green cardamom, cinnamon, bay leaf, and coriander seeds.
- After 30 seconds, add chopped tomato and stir everything together.
- Add the yogurt, increase to high heat, and continuously stir everything until it boils. If you don't stir, the yogurt will curdle.
- Once the yogurt mixture reaches a boil, reduce the flame to medium heat. Let the yogurt mixture sit in the pan for 3-5 minutes, until it thickens and there is a thin layer of aromatic oil on top.
- Add chickpeas and 1 cup of boiling water. Mix.
- Leave the curry to cook for another 5-10 minutes, until it thickens again.
- Add the previously fried onion and ground spices: chili, garam masala, turmeric, cumin, and dried fenugreek leaves. Mix.
- Taste and adjust salt, as desired.
- Garnish with chopped cilantro and enjoy!*
Notes
The dish can be served with basmati rice or Indian bread, but I personally like to eat it on its own!
Recommended Products
As an Amazon Associate and member of other affiliate programs, We earn from qualifying purchases.
Nutrition Information:
Yield:
3Amount Per Serving: Calories: 421
