Pailin – A Culinary Adventure in Cambodia’s Landmines Zone

Come along with our writer, Oz, as he shares an unforgettable road trip in Western Cambodia – full of history and delicious food.

It’s not always easy to travel in Cambodia.

I don’t only refer to undeveloped infrastructure or language barrier but to its multi-dimensional history.

Cambodia has one of Southeast Asia’s most ancient and richest civilizations – with magnificent Khmer architecture, royal cuisine, and various forms of traditional art. Yet, within the astonishing Angkor Wat ruins and delicious Fish Amok, a dark side of history lies.

Cambodia in recent history

Cambodia fell under the rule of the Khmer Rouge in 1975. Millions of Cambodians were killed between 1975 and 1979. Cultural centers and information resources about Cambodian art, music, theater, and cuisine were burned to ashes.

The national trauma can still be felt to this day. The Cambodian people are some of the most welcoming and kind-hearted people that I have ever met, and yet, decades of pain and struggle can be seen in their eyes. I deeply admire them for their resilience and stubborn pursuit of happiness, even in the face of their hurtful past.

In 1979, The People’s Army of Vietnam ousted the Khmer Rouge from power. The ruling elite retreated to the Pailin province of Western Cambodia, where many former Khmer Rouge leaders remain today. Decades of consecutive war followed, and Pailin was extensively mined.

Today, it remains home to numerous unexploded landmines.

Nonetheless – Pailin’s history is far more complex and inspiring than communism and landmines. And this, I was about to find out by myself.

Traveling in Pailin, Cambodia

While waiting for my visa to enter Thailand, I stayed in Battambang (a big city in West Cambodia) for a couple of weeks. After Numerous day trips around the area, I decided to rent a motorcycle for a day and go for an adventure to the Cardamom Mountains of the neighboring Pailin Province.

It was not my first road trip in Southeast Asia, but was definitely one that I’ll never forget. Not only for the never-ending greenery of scenic mountains and pepper plantations, or stunning temple architecture and historical sites, But for the number of smiling faces, and the welcoming shouts of “Hello!” and “What is your name?” every time that I crossed a local village or passed by local vehicles on the bumpy roads.

Pailin was once a part of the mighty Khmer Empire. However, it was conquered by the Burmese in the 16th century and occupied by the Kingdom of Siam (now Thailand) until less than a century ago. Thus, the province is a melting pot of Khmer, Thai, and Burmese cultural traditions.

Prior to the Khmer Rouge, the people of Pailin were predominantly Kola. The Kola people migrated from Myanmar in the 19th century and were followed by the Burmese Shan ethnic group several decades later. This affinity to Burmese culture is still shown in the region’s dress, arts, festivals, and of course – cuisine.

After half a day of riding through the mountains, I arrived in Krong Pailin, the province’s capital – hungry for a feast.

Eating in Krong Pailin

I parked my motorcycle in front of the city’s main temple – a stunning Buddhist complex with a Burmese-style golden pagoda, located on the top of a hill.

As I went down, I noticed a small restaurant with an array of colorful curries, grilled fish, and spicy condiments. The female owner stood behind the pots and smiled gently. She wore a unique Kola dressing – her blouse was woven with intricate Kola patterns and golden bracelets hung from her wrists.

I approached, and couldn’t keep myself from asking her about her life in Pailian, the Kola people, and their unique cuisine. She happily explained that Cambodian Kola cuisine is quite different from Burmese cuisine nowadays, since the community was isolated from Burmese influence for generations, and their gastronomy developed independently.

I ordered the restaurant’s signature dish, Mee Kola, and another curry dish of chicken and Thai eggplants, as it was a dish that I had never seen in other provinces in Cambodia, and was eager to try.

Mee Kola

Mee Kola, or Kola Noodles, is a light and refreshing dish of rice vermicelli, steamed and cooked with soy sauce and garlic chive. They were served with peanuts, sweet pickles, and a softly boiled egg.

The textural balance between the crunchiness of the peanuts and tangy veggies and the softness of the egg and rice noodles was delightful.

The sweet and sour flavors of the sauce were complimented with an additional umami touch of fish sauce and dried shrimp – one of my favorite ingredients.

Chicken Eggplant Curry

The second dish took me by surprise. Khmer curries are generally mellower than their Thai, Malaysian, and Burmese counterparts. They also tend to be less heavy on oily products, such as coconut milk.

This dish, in a way, reminded me of Pailin’s proximity to Thailand.

It had a fiery flavor to it, bursting with aromatic flavors of galangal, lemongrass, and holy basil leaves.

While being very different from more popular Khmer curry dishes such as Fish Amok and Samlor Machu Kroeung, it was also not a Thai dish.

For me, this curry represents the unique gastronomy of the Pailin province, absorbing so many external influences, while preserving its own, one-of-a-kind character.

Pure, but connected

The pursuit of authenticity and purity in culture, and especially cuisine, has been becoming more and more relevant nowadays, serving one’s sense of cultural, ethnic, or national identity.

Yet, Pailin has reminded me that a culture cannot be completely isolated from outer influences, stubbornly holding onto its peculiarity. It cannot run away from changes and new ideas.

Perhaps it shouldn’t.

For an additional taste of Oz’s journey, have a look at his Cha Kroeung (lemongrass chicken) recipe.

Oz

Oz is originally from central Israel, and is currently based in Amsterdam. Alongside being a jazz musician, he is a dedicated foodie and a professional chef. He has traveled the world since 2021, exploring some of his favourite cuisines such as Thai, Greek, Moroccan and much more! His favourite way to travel is going to food markets and venues, interacting with the local people and hearing their stories through food. He is inspired by the unbreakable bond between a culture and culinary traditions. By travelling and eating, he enjoys witnessing how food can influence and be influenced by history and cultural exchange.